Written by Dr. Sanjana V.B Bhms,dbrm,cdn

Founder & medical director of siahmsr wellness.in

all rights reserved with siahmsr digital healthcare[siahmsr wellness]

 Anti-ageing  skin care routine for all

Ageing

   Ageing is an unpreventable change happening in the body affecting vital organs, tissues and cells. The change in the growing years become more clear and evident on skin and those fine lines and wrinkles are worrisome for many people.

Although ageing cannot be prevented completely, age related changes can be delayed and skin betterment is possible by proper skin care, nutrition. Advanced skin care includes many cosmetic procedures which help to make better the appearance of skin.

  Everybody wants to have healthy wrinkle free, tan free, dark spot free skin. Begin your journey towards the goal of healthy skin early. Healthy radiant glow without wrinkles is a dream for many. Have a glance at the skin related data and know your skin and its problems well and later about the use of ant-ageing skin care routine.

 What does ageing and premature ageing mean?

   Ageing is a natural process regulated by genes and other intrinsic factors along with some extrinsic factors of our environment. Ageing affects the skin, organ systems, tissues and cells of the body, but the pace of ageing process as well as the “aged look” is dependent on many other factors like diet, life style, sun induced damage, exposure to toxins and chemicals etc.

   Premature ageing in common parlance is “too old or aged appearance of skin and body while chronological age has not increased”. Premature aging is when the typical effects of growing older happen early. Skin changes include wrinkles, age spots, dryness, loss of skin tone, hyperpigmentation and sagging. The prematurely aged look can be reversed if anti- ageing routine is initiated very early.

      The major cause of premature ageing is sun induced damage, nutrient deficiencies, stress and toxins. High-energy visible (HEV) and infrared light are another important cause for skin changes. HEV light (also called blue light) comes from the sun and electronic devices like smartphones reduces the elasticity of your skin. All these are extrinsic factors of ageing.

  All these are modifiable causes in the beginning phase, if proper anti-ageing routine is followed right from your late twenties and early thirties.

  1.    For children and adolescents

If they are exposed to long hours of bright sun light tanning and dehydration of skin happens. Therefore they may follow minimalistic skin care routine such as  adequate water intake, balanced diet, sun protection measures, skin friendly natural moisturizers and blue light [HEV] protection if they are exposed to  gadgets for a long time.  

 Normally children are not advised any skin care routine except good nutritious diet and adequate water intake to prevent dehydration as the repairing mechanism in skin is sufficient to deal with any stress on skin. But as the age advances many significant changes happen within the skin and body. Therefore for adults the anti- ageing care of skin is a little more elaborate depending on their exposure to extrinsic factors and the age at which they seek a solution.

Ageing skin - Difference between chronological skin ageing & premature ageing
What are the solutions?

    It is the moment, when you  start seeing the first few fine lines on your face, you begin to obsess over your skin routine  in order to prevent the early signs of ageing. Ageing is dependent on genes as well as environment.

Both intrinsic and extrinsic factors contribute to ageing.

Over exposure to the sun, an unhealthy lifestyle, pollution, insufficient sleep, and mental stress are the top contributors to skin ageing, which damages the texture as well as the smoothness of the skin.

Chronological ageing

 Chronologically aged skin and prematurely aged skin may have different changes. Intrinsic factors like genes causing ageing over the years [chronological ageing] make the skin thin and atrophic, finely wrinkled and dry. Early indications of ageing include dry skin, fine wrinkles, uneven skin tone, rough texture, visible pores, and blotchy skin.

Sun induced damage to skin leading to premature ageing 

Sun induced damage to skin or photo-ageing  signs are a thickened epidermis, mottled discoloration, deep wrinkles laxity, dullness and roughness.

Gradual loss of skin elasticity leads to the phenomenon of sagging also. Photo-aged skin by sun induced damage is characterized by coarse and fine wrinkles. Decreased collagen content in photo-aged skin may be due to increased collagen degradation. Collagen is the protein that makes skin tight and strong. Decreased collagen may eventually cause sagging and wrinkles.

 Studies have identified marked reductions in procollagens I and III, collagen VII in photo-aged skin. Topically applied all-trans retinoic acid can repair photo-aged skin if used as prescribed and directed by a dermatologist.

    Glycosaminoglycans are the primary dermal skin matrix component that helps to bind water. In photo-aged skin, Glycosaminoglycans may be associated with abnormal elastotic material impairing the functions. Chronic sun exposure leads to structural and functional alterations in exposed skin [5].

Other causes of ageing of skin include:

    Aging changes of the face is associated with many other factors such as  the impact of gravity, muscles action, loss of volume, decreasing and redistribution of superficial and deep fat, loss of bony skeleton support what all together lead to the face sagging, changes in shape and contour.

The overall collagen content per unit area of the skin surface may decline approximately 1% per year. Skin collagen decreased with age and was less in the females at all ages [3].

  First sign of ageing facial skin is the loss of fat from under the eyes. This gives a sunken look to your eyes along with the appearance of defined lines. The skin around your eyes is more sensitive than other parts of the face.

How to address signs of ageing & premature ageing

  In photo ageing and ageing of skin from various extrinsic causes such as life style, toxins, U V rays of sun etc. the underlying cause must be addressed.  You may use sunscreens, life style modifications, quitting smoking and alcohol, taking balanced nutritious diet etc.

   However, the natural ageing process over the years has both gene as well as extrinsic factors as the causes. Therefore proper skin care is essential to prevent photo ageing with sun screens, to replenish the moisture of skin using moisturizers, retinoid creams if it is prescribed by your doctor.

In addition ageing over the years causes spontaneous depletion of various compounds from your skin. So anti-ageing solutions are often focusing on replenishing these substances such as hyaluronic acid, hydrating agents, collagen supplements etc.

However for minimalistic skin care routine you may use the following from your late twenties

Anti-ageing creams are a helpful to certain extent in minimizing the look of fine lines and wrinkles. Alpha and beta hydroxy compounds, retinol, and vitamins A and C may all be present in anti-ageing products.

Regular use of these creams will give back your skin a smoother texture. Anti-ageing routines have advantages for both your physical look and your psychological well-being as it may boost your confidence hugely.

It is recommended that people should start using anti-ageing creams in their late 20s and early 30s.

Cosmetology or aesthetic medicine has various methods to address age related changes. Anti- ageing products are the fundamental skin care routine compounds only.

Anti -ageing compounds for basic or minimalistic skin care

   The age, previous  skin procedures or surgery, general health status, type of the skin, style of life and many other factors should be taken into consideration before choosing the anti-ageing products.

·       Cleanser

    Every morning cleanse your face well to remove oil and dirt. It is the first step towards healthful skin care. Use a good quality face cleanser. Cleansing may help to prevent acne and comedones in oily skinned people.

·       Moisturizer

Moisturize your skin regularly for keeping it hydrated and thus prevent wrinkles. Moisturizing creams improve skin tone, texture, fine lines and wrinkles.

Prolonged sun exposure may cause your skin lose its moisture content. Similarly living in air-conditioned rooms may steal your skin off its natural moisture. Ultimately fine lines, wrinkles, and dullness might be the result.

Apply a moisturizer on your skin immediately after bathing. It temporarily gives a plump look to skin, making lines and wrinkles less visible. Moisturizers are available as lotions, creams, gels and serums made of water, oils and other ingredients, such as proteins, waxes, glycerin, lactate and urea.

 Choose a good quality skin friendly moisturizing cream for your skin. You may apply moisturizer or petroleum jelly on hands and soles to prevent cracks. Lip balms may help to prevent cracked or chapped lips

·       Sunscreen

Sun screen lotions or creams are very important to prevent photo-ageing of your skin. Sun screen usage is necessary not only outdoors but indoors too if you spend much of your time under blue lights from gadgets like mobile phones, computers etc. The  blue light that is emitted by these gadgets, also called high-energy visible (HEV) light, which can penetrate deep into your skin, causing pigmentation ,dark spots and wrinkles.

·       Vitamin C (ascorbic acid) serum or cream

   Vitamin C is a potent antioxidant, which fights against free radicals  that cause oxidative stress on your skin and cause skin damage  which may break down skin cells and cause wrinkles. Vitamin C may help protect skin from sun damage or photo-ageing and reduce fine lines and wrinkles. Vitamin C helps your skin repair the sun induced damage.

    Studies shows that vitamin C levels are lower in aged or photo damaged skin. Vitamin C intake can help in stimulating collagen synthesis and assisting in antioxidant protection against UV-induced photo damage. Therefore vitamin C is also used as topical applications such as serums and creams.

     However its efficacy as an external application is not very clear. Vitamin C is easily lost on contact with air. Also, Vitamin C, as a water-soluble and charged molecule, is repelled by the physical barrier of the epidermal cells of skin. It is only when pH levels are below 4 and vitamin C is present as ascorbic acid that some penetration occurs.

    Vitamin C topical applications [creams ,serums etc.] need to ensure stabilization of the molecule from oxidation and also overcome the challenge of skin penetration. Furthermore, they must be converted to ascorbic acid in order to be effective on skin. The addition of a phosphate group to the product of vitamin C confers greater stability and these derivatives may be converted to ascorbic acid in vivo improving the efficacy but they are poorly absorbed through the skin. Recent studies suggest that encapsulation of vitamin C into a lipospheric form may assist with transport into the lower layers of the skin.

     So every vitamin C cream or serum may not give the desired effects to skin. Choose vitamin C products with lipospheric encapsulation. Most high quality products should fulfill these criteria to improve the efficacy. Ensure the quality while you choose a cream or serum only after just having a glance at the ingredients listed.

·       Retinoid creams

      Retinoid creams are used only under the directions from a dermatologist depending on the nature of your skin and the ageing related changes. It is prescribed in ageing skin with fine lines and wrinkles.

Retinoids are vitamin A compounds, such as retinol and retinoic acid. These compounds are used topically to help repair sun-damaged skin and reduce fine lines and wrinkles.

 Retinoid creams prompt your skin to make more collagen, which gives your skin structure and elasticity. They also exfoliate your skin, removing dead, surface skin cells. Retinoid creams are mostly applied on skin as a night skin care routine.

·       Anti-ageing foods

In the anti-ageing routine your diet also plays a vital role. Include anti-ageing foods in your well balanced diet for ensuring healthy ageing.

In order to look young and healthy it is important to eat foods rich in all vital nutrients. Protein, fat, vitamins and minerals have significant role in skin elasticity, tone, strength and radiance. Deficiencies of each nutrient affect skin drastically.

Link to anti- ageing foods [ read more]

http://siahmsrwellness.in/nutrition/list/anti-ageing-foods

 

References

 

1.    https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/2768836/

2.    https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/11348454/

3.    https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/1220811/

4.    https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3583892/

5.    https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/8881669/

6.    https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/10692106/

7.    https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/12522365/

8.    https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5579659/