Written & Medically reviewed by
Dr.Sanjana.V.B. Bhms. Dbrm.Cdn 

Oily skin care

  Oily skin is one of the major concerns for all adolescents and adults in almost all ethnic groups in global population. Oil glands tend to be more numerous and large in black skin, and follicles tend to be larger, so black skin tends toward oiliness, although it is less acne-prone.

Oily skin may appear shiny or greasy, commonly observed on the forehead, nose and chin [T zone].Oily appearance of skin is due to sebum or oil production by the sebaceous glands on your skin.

 Oily skin is shiny and coarser-textured, often with large pores. It is prone to blackheads and spots. Oily skin needs extra care in comparison with normal skin. Oily skin is acne prone although sebum or oil produced by the skin supports skin health in optimum levels

  The amount of sebum secretion varies  in men and women. The average rate of sebum production in adults is 1mg/10cm2 every three hours. When rate of sebum secretion reduces to less than 0.5mg/10cm2 every three hours, it causes dry skin. On the contrary, when sebum production exceeds 1.5mg/10cm2 every three hours, it causes oily skin.

The rate of sebum or oil production on the skin varies from person to person. It is higher in men due to higher testosterone levels.

   Oily skin condition associated with hormones and genes. Some dietary factors and topical applications on face may aggravate the condition. There are home remedies and dermatological solutions by doctors to tackle this problem. Dermatologists uses various topical applications such as retinoids  and various agents to manage oily skin related issues.

    Sebum secretion increases during puberty. It does not decrease again until after menopause for women and around the sixth to seventh decade for men. Therefore acne worsens during puberty and adolescence although it is found in adults also.

Androgens or male hormones, particularly 5α-dihydrotestosterone (DHT), play a crucial role in the sebum production.  It is higher in men due to higher testosterone levels. It is noticed that sebum production increases during ovulation in women, probably due to increased progesterone post ovulation.

 Sebum also varies according to one’s environment and the time of year. Several studies have described an increase in sebum production during the spring and summer and in more humid climates.

TOPICAL TREATMENTS FOR OILY SKIN 

Retinoids

Topical vitamin A based drugs are known as retinoids and it is believed that they have potential to reduce fine lines and wrinkles on skin. It has been in use as an acne treatment drug for decades, but researchers later discovered that retinoids can also fade actinic keratosis spots and pigmentation.

Studies  and clinical experience with topical retinoids  have found that it may cause adverse effect of dry skin, but direct evidence of reduction in sebum output is lacking. While using retinoid creams wear a sunscreen during the day as retinoids increase the skin's sensitivity to sunlight.

  Numerous cosmeceutical products are  in use to  reduce oily  appearance of skin. A few are listed below.

Niacinamide 

Niacinamide is a form of vitamin B3.Studies have shown that niacinamide has the potential to act as an antioxidant, can improve epidermal barrier function, decrease skin hyperpigmentation, reduce fine lines and wrinkles, decrease redness, decrease skin yellowness, and improve skin elasticity although the mechanism of action of niacinamide is not well understood. The topical use of niacinamide for anti-aging has proven to be effective. Topical niacinamide may be helpful for those with oily skin, further studies are needed to explicate the mechanism of action and ideal treatment regimen.[1]

  Green  tea

Green tea emulsion topical application also has sebum or oil reducing potential. According to a  study significant reduction in sebum secretion after 60 days of a topical green tea emulsion has been reported[3].

2% L-carnitine

L-carnitine is a chemical that is made in the human brain, liver, and kidneys. Its synthetic form is used as topical applications. L-carnitine can be used to treat dry, peeling, scarred, or wrinkled skin . Topical 2% L-carnitine application on skin has been shown to significantly decrease intracellular fatty acid content in human sebocytes and resulted in significant sebum reduction[4]

  Oral medications also are prescribed by dermatologists for managing oily skin. 

Home remedies for oily skin

Excessively oily face is a common problem encountered by men and women. Overproduction of sebum from the sebaceous glands makes the face oily. Sebum in optimum levels helps and protects skin. However, excess sebum production can lead to acne and blackheads on the face.

 Simple home remedies also are applicable to manage oily skin. Washing the face, moisturizing and using a blotting paper to absorb excess oil are some helpful remedies to manage oil on the skin. You can also use ingredients like aloe vera, Fuller’s earth and gram flour to make face packs for oily skin.  

A few oil absorbing ingredients to include in various types of face packs are listed below:

·       Honey

·       French green clay

·       Fuller’s earth

·       Oatmeal

·       Soy milk

·       Gram fluor

·       Egg white face mask

·       Jojoba oil

A face pack for oily skin 

Red sandalwood face mask

   This exquisite face pack of red sandalwood & cucumber juice is recommended for oily skin with recurrent acne or pimples. But using lemon as an ingredient is not advised if there is intensely inflamed reddish or pinkish tainted acne on the face. You may use this pack without lemon, once acne heals or dries up. However, anybody with an  excessively oil secretion on face [without irritated acne] or having  dark spots can apply this whole face pack.

·     Red Sandalwood [Pterocarpus santalinus ]

    It is known by a wide variety of names such as Red Sanders, Red Sanders wood, Red Saunders, Rakta chandana (Indian),However, it is commonly known as Red Sandalwood, or rakta chandana among the people  who use it for  many skin related ailments and cosmetic purposes. This tree is a native and endemic to India and can be found in the southern parts of the Eastern Ghats. It is a small tree that grows to 5-8 meters in height and has a dark grayish bark.

    The timber of the tree is loved and used by people of India and abroad, especially in East Asian countries. Beyond its cosmetic usage as an ingredient of face packs for attaining beautiful & blemish free, soft skin, the timbre is used for many other purposes .It  is used for carvings, furniture, poles, and house posts.

    The rare “wavy” grain variant red sandal wood tree and its timber is highly valued in Japan for its acoustic properties and is used to make musical instruments.

   It is primarily used for skin care and beauty purposes. It is very effective in reducing blemishes and treating acne. It also helps in the removal of sun tan and dullness because of its cooling properties. The paste made by rubbing the wood with some water is more skin friendly.

  It is primarily used for skin care and beauty purposes as it is very effective in reducing blemishes and treating acne. It also helps in the removal of sun tan and dullness because of its cooling properties.

·     Cucumber

     Cucumbers can clear the skin as they are high in water content. This may help reduce acne breakouts. Cucumbers can reduce the swelling and puffiness of the skin as they are rich in folic acid and Vitamin C.

 The antioxidant components in cucumbers may be having anti-wrinkle properties. Also, cucumbers contain both folic acid and vitamin C. Vitamin C is an antioxidant and can facilitate new cell growth, while folic acid helps fight off environmental toxins .Cucumber also has anti-inflammatory property and provide cooling effect.

·   Lemon

Lemon has vitamin C and it helps to remove tan and lighten your skin. Vitamin C is a great antioxidant which removes sun induced skin damage and ageing consequent to oxidative stress.

Preparation of the mask:

Mix 2tbsp red sandalwood powder with 3tbsp cucumber juice & 1 tbsp lemon juice to prepare a mixture. Stir well. Add rose water to get the pack ready in good texture. 

Apply this paste all over your face and neck and let it dry.  After drying, wet the face with water and gently remove the pack. Wash your face well with lukewarm water.

This brightening and cooling face pack helps in regulating the secretion of sebum and makes the pores tight. The face pack is soothing and cooling to your skin and senses due to the fragrance of rose water .You may add some sandalwood paste also to the mixture for better cooling experience. Red sandalwood is great for oily skin care as well as for  diminishing blemishes on  skin from acne.

How to choose sunscreen and moisturizers for oily skin? 

Non comedogenic moisturizers are advisable for oily skin. They are oil free and do not clog the pores of your skin. Therefore it is recommended for acne prone oily skin.

Broad spectrum sunscreens with SPF above 30 can be applied when you are outside or in front of bright artificial lights from computer screen , mobiles etc. Sunscreen helps prevent sun damage that could lead to wrinkles, age spots and even skin cancer. To prevent acne breakouts, look for sunscreens that contain zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, but avoid using sunscreens that contain fragrance or oils.

Instructions for caring oily skin

According to American academy of dermatology followings things are helpful in managing oily skin:

·       Wash your face every morning, evening, and after exercise.

·       Choose   skin care products that are labeled “oil free” and “noncomedogenic.

·       Use a gentle, foaming face wash, no harsh, irritant types.

·       avoid  oil-based or alcohol-based cleansers

·       Apply sunscreen when you are outdoors

·       Apply moisturizer[ non comedogenic or oil free] daily to keep your skin hydrated

·       Avoid   touching your face throughout the day as it cause microbes ,bacteriae infecting acne.

·       Do use blotting papers to  remove excess oil from your face. Gently press[ do not rub] the paper against your face to absorb excess oil

References

1.    https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/16766489/

2.    https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5605215/

3.    https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/23935347/

4.    https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/22360332/

5.    https://www.aad.org/public/everyday-care/skin-care-basics/dry/oily-skin

6.  https://www.health.harvard.edu/staying-healthy/do-retinoids-really-reduce-wrinkles

7.  https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2921764/