Compiled & medically reviewed by 

Dr.Sanjana.V.B. Bhms. Dbrm.Cdn

RETINOL

Overview

   Skin health is achieved through numerous processes happening within the body and nutrients like vitamin A, C, D and E play important role in it. Epidermis or outer layer of skin lacks blood vessels ,that can provide nutrients to cells. Nutrients reach epidermis after diffusion from the blood vessels that supply dermis,the inner layer of skin.

  Nutritional status is vital for maintaining normal functioning of the skin during collagen synthesis and keratinocyte differentiation processes. Vitamins  are very important for various functions and structural integrity of skin.

   Skin ageing happens from intrinsic or internal factors [such as genes] of your body and extrinsic or environmental factors such as sun induced damage, chemical exposure, stress etc. Nutrients have great role in delaying, preventing and managing skin ageing process.Intrinsic aging is a slow process and, changes do not become evident until advanced age, if no extrinsic causes like UV rays cause damage to skin.

   Skin ageing from intrinsic causes is characterized by reduction in the thickness of the dermal layer of your skin, along with fewer fibroblasts and mast cells. Collagen production and blood vessel formation for skin oxygenation and nutrition are also reduced.Specifically, during intrinsic aging there is gradual degradation of elastin and collagen.

    Dryness of skin is very common in ageing people, chiefly due to a loss of glycosaminoglycans and the reduced ability to maintain moisture levels. Dryness  of skin in old age due to alterations in the keratinisation process and lipid content of the stratum corneum. Intrinsically aged skin is dry and less elastic than more youthful skin while extrinsically aged skin may appear with deep, coarse wrinkles, mottled hyperpigmentation and a marked loss of elasticity and recoil.

    Extrinsic ageing happens from sun damage, smoking and poor nutrition. Chronic exposure to U V rays of sun induced damage is called photo ageing.  Another ageing accelerating cause is smoking.Acute exposure of skin to UV radiation can cause sunburn, resulting in a large inflammatory response causing redness, swelling and heat.Chronic long-term exposure to UV radiation causes premature aging of the skin, with marked disruption to skin structure, and may lead to the development of skin cancer or photoaging.  The prominent features are wrinkles, hyperpigmentation and significant changes in skin elasticity that cause skin sagging, with the skin also becoming sallow and rougher with age.

     Both the epidermal and dermal layers of skin are susceptible to chronic UV exposure; however, the most detrimental impact is on dermis. Changes include a significant loss of collagen fibrils within the dermis, but also specific loss of collagen anchoring fibrils at the dermal–epidermal junction.

 You may have to protect your skin with antioxidant vitamins from inside and outside for preventing skin ageing to a great extent ; include vitamin and mineral rich foods in your diet. Vitamin C and vitamin E, with the combination being particularly effective. A few study results indicate the need for complete oxidant scavenging by antioxidant helps to remove oxidative damage from acute sun exposure.Nutrition  or intake of nutrients may be more effective than topical application.However topical application of vitamin A derivative retinoids ,particularly retinol creams , lotions, serum are effective as anti- ageing compounds.

 Retinol

  This is a vitaminA derivative with anti-wrinkle and  anti-aging effects.It is a fat-soluble substances and belongs to the category of retinoids. Retinoids are a class of compounds derived from vitamin A or showing structural and/or functional similarities to vitamin A. 

 Vitamin A and its derivatives, particularly retinol, are substances slowing the aging process very effectively. Retinol in the form of retinyl palmitate, retinal and β-carotene is most commonly used in cosmetics.Retinol creams are used widely for reducing wrinkles on skin and for other anti-aging effects.

Actions of vitamin A [retinol] on skin:

 Vitamin A is fat-soluble and its derivative retinol penetrates into the stratum corneum of epidermis and, to a small extent, into the dermis of skin also. It can promote keratinocytes [skin cells] proliferation, strengthen the protective function of the epidermis, restrain water loss from skin layers. It also prevents collagen degradation and inhibits metalloproteinases activity of your skin. Retinol helps to reduce wrinkles and fine lines on your skin and make your skin more elastic.

Vitamin A derivative retinol is used as serums, lotions and creams for treating acne vulgaris and other types of acne as well as in the treatment of diseases such as ichthyosis and psoriasis.

Retinol creams are also used for reducing dark spots, hyperpigmentation, stretch marks, although it may take many months for a visible change to happen to the spots.

Is retinol good for everyone?

Retinol creams are available over the counter but stronger preparations need prescription from a dermatologist. It is always advisable to take retinol preparations under the guidance of a dermatologist because retinol may take so many weeks to show its effects on your skin. Initially there may be some worsening of your skin appearance and at that time you may need assurance from a doctor to stick to this regimen. This is noticed particularly when you use retinol creams for acne and acne scars. But continued use as directed by your doctor may help you get rid of acne.

Some people may be allergic or over sensitive to retinol.So it is very important to do patch test before using retinol.

Retinol makes your skin more sensitive to sunlight and it does more harm. So it is very important to use  good sunscreen  whenever you are exposed to sun ,even if you apply retinol as a night cream.

Side effects

Redness, itching, dryness,sunburn and irritated skin are the major side effects.

References

1.     https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/25995818/

2.     https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/20572890/

3.     https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/21146730/

4.     https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/21146730/

5.     https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/17200942/

6.     1. Weller R.H., John A., Savin J., Dahl M. The Function and Structure of Skin. 5th ed. Wiley-Blackwell; Massachusetts, MA, USA: 2008. [Google Scholar]

7.     https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/11710935/

8.     https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/12522365/

9.     https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/20572890/

10.  https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/12522365/

         11. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/15087591/